Chapter 35: Tool and Material Shopping List

A list of what to buy, organized into kits. The starter kit gets you through Parts I–III. The intermediate kit adds what you need for Parts IV and V. After that, we're getting into specialty equipment that's hard to justify for one-off projects, where renting or hiring out makes more sense.

I'll give brand recommendations where it matters. Some of these are tools you'll use for the rest of your life, so paying a little more upfront is worth it. Others are commodity items where the cheap version is fine.

The Starter Kit

For receptacle replacement, switch replacement, light fixtures, ceiling fans, USB outlets, and basic troubleshooting. About $200–300 if you start from zero.

• Voltage tester (non-contact). Klein NCVT-3P or Fluke 1AC-A1-II. About $25. The single most important tool. Touch it to a wire, the tester glows or beeps if voltage is present. Buy a backup, you'll lose the first one.
• Multimeter. Klein MM325 (~$30) for basic work, or Fluke 117 (~$170) if you do this regularly. A multimeter measures voltage, continuity, and resistance. The cheap one will get you through most homeowner work. The Fluke is a buy-once-cry-once tool that lasts 30 years.
• Insulated screwdrivers (1000V rated). Klein 32500 11-in-1 multibit (~$30) covers most needs. Make sure they're rated 1000V or higher. Don't use random Philips screwdrivers from the kitchen drawer for electrical work.
• Wire strippers. Klein 11055 (~$25) or Klein Katapult 11045 (~$50). The Katapult is faster but more expensive. The basic stripper does fine for occasional work.
• Lineman's pliers. Klein D213-9NE (~$45). For cutting cable, twisting wire nuts, and pulling cable through boxes. Heavy duty, lifetime tool.
• Needle-nose pliers (insulated). Klein D203-7 (~$25). For working in tight spaces and shaping wire ends.
• Voltage detector with display. Klein RT250 plug-in tester (~$15) for verifying outlet wiring. Tells you if hot/neutral are reversed, if ground is missing, etc. Critical for inspecting your work after an outlet install.
• Outlet tester with GFCI test button. Same as above, the RT250 has GFCI test built in.
• Headlamp. Petzl Tikkina (~$25) or any decent LED model. You'll be in dark spaces (under cabinets, in attics, behind panels). Headlamps free up both hands.
• Wire nuts. Assorted size kit (Ideal or 3M), about $15. Get a kit with 30+ of each size. The colors matter: yellow (medium), red (large), blue (small for solid), tan/gray (small for stranded). Buy more than you think you need.
• Electrical tape. Scotch Super 33+ (~$5/roll). Buy two rolls. Don't get the cheap stuff; it loses adhesion in heat.
• Fish tape. Klein 25-foot (~$20) for short pulls. Or skip until the intermediate kit.
• Tool bag or pouch. Klein Tradesman Pro (~$50) or any 10-pocket pouch. Saves you from constant trips to the workbench.

Total: ~$250 if you go basic Klein everywhere, ~$400 if you upgrade the multimeter to Fluke.

The Intermediate Kit

Add to the starter kit when you're ready to extend circuits, run new circuits, install outdoor outlets, hardwire appliances, and do basic 240V work. Adds ~$200–400.

• Drill (cordless). DeWalt DCD777 or similar 20V drill (~$120 with battery). For drilling through studs, joists, and headers when running cable. If you already have one for general home stuff, you're good.
• Hole saw kit. Diablo or Milwaukee, 1/2" through 1" sizes (~$40). For cutting cable holes through framing. Match cable size: 14/2 needs 1/2" hole minimum, 12/2 needs 5/8", 10/2 needs 3/4".
• Auger bit set. Irwin Speedbor or DeWalt, 1/2", 3/4", 1" (~$30). Faster than hole saws for clean wood holes.
• Long flex bit (for fishing through walls). Diablo Fish Stik or Milwaukee Switchblade, 18-inch (~$50). For drilling between stud bays or through plates without opening drywall.
• Better fish tape. Klein 50-foot (~$35) and Klein 100-foot (~$60). Different lengths for different jobs. The longer one is for runs between floors.
• Cable ripper. Klein 1411R (~$15). For stripping the outer jacket of NM cable without nicking the conductors inside. Saves time on every cable termination.
• Conduit bender (1/2" EMT). Klein 51606 or Milwaukee (~$50). Only if you're doing any EMT work. Not needed for NM-only installs.
• Crimper for ground wires/lugs. Klein 1005 (~$30) for occasional use. Or upgrade to a ratcheting crimper if you're doing a lot.
• Stud finder. Bosch GMS120 or Franklin ProSensor (~$45–60). For locating studs and avoiding cables/pipes when drilling. The Franklin senses everything; the Bosch is more focused.
• Voltage detector (better). Fluke T6-1000 or T5-600 (~$200). For non-contact voltage and current measurement on live circuits. Useful when you can't afford to disconnect to test.
• Cable lubricant. WD-40 Cable Pulling lube or similar (~$10). For pulling cable through long conduit runs.
• 4" square boxes and mud rings. A stack of 5–10 each. Cheaper than buying one at a time. Used for almost every junction or device installation in finished walls.
• Cable staples. A box of NM staples for 14/2 and 12/2 (Gardner Bender or Klein, ~$10). Always have extra.
• Wire markers or labeling tape. Red and blue tape rolls, plus a Sharpie. For marking circuits in junction boxes.

Total intermediate add: ~$300–450.

The Advanced Kit (Selective Additions)

If you're doing sub-panels, EV chargers, generator interlocks, or panel work, add these as needed.

• Torque screwdriver. Wera Kraftform Click (~$200) or a Klein torque tool. For meeting torque specs on breakers and panel terminals. Required for most sub-panel and panel installations. Inspectors check this.
• Megger (insulation tester). Klein ET600 (~$300) or Fluke 1507 (~$700). For testing wiring insulation when troubleshooting hard-to-find shorts. Worth it if you do this often. Otherwise, rent.
• Cable tracer / circuit ID kit. Klein ET450 (~$130) for finding which breaker controls which circuit, or for tracing cables in walls. Saves enormous time on troubleshooting calls.
• Reciprocating saw. DeWalt or Milwaukee 20V cordless (~$130). For cutting drywall, framing, or notching as needed. Useful for any rough-in work.
• Wire pulling sock or grip. Greenlee or Klein (~$15). For pulling heavy cable through long conduit. Keeps the cable from slipping off the fish tape.
• Conduit threader. Only if you're working with rigid metal conduit. Most residential is EMT or PVC, so usually not needed.
• Tubing cutter for EMT. Klein 51750 (~$15). Cleaner cuts than a hacksaw.

Total advanced add: ~$400–1000 depending on selection.

Materials You'll Run Out Of

Every electrician keeps these in bulk. Stock up in advance:

• Wire nuts. A 100-pack of yellow (#73B) and a 100-pack of red (#76B). Plus a small pack of blue (#71B) for small joints and gray (#72B) for stranded.
• NM cable, 14/2 with ground. A 250' roll for a major project. About $80 at typical prices (2025), depending on copper market. Don't buy small lengths from a big-box store; they're priced way higher per foot.
• NM cable, 12/2 with ground. 250' roll, around $130 typically.
• Outlets. A 10-pack of standard 15A or 20A residential outlets, your color choice. About $15–25 for spec-grade Leviton or Eaton.
• Switches. 10-pack of 15A toggle switches. About $10–20 for spec-grade.
• Switch and outlet covers. A few of each common color. White, ivory, and almond cover most houses.
• Old-work boxes. A few single-gang and double-gang for retrofits.
• New-work plastic boxes. A few 18 and 22 cu in for new installs.
• 4-square steel boxes. A stack for junctions.
• Mud rings. 1/2" and 5/8" for matching to drywall thickness.
• Cable staples. Matched to your cable sizes.
• NM cable connectors. Snap-in plastic clamps for plastic boxes, or screw-in steel ones for steel boxes.
• Anti-oxidant compound (Noalox). Small tube for any aluminum wire connections. A must for sub-panels and service work with aluminum.

Where to Buy

The big-box stores (Lowe's, Home Depot) have everything you'll need for residential work, but at retail prices and limited selection on specialty items. Fine for a single project. Bad for stocking up.

Electrical supply houses: Crawford Electric Supply, Rexel, City Electric Supply, all have OKC metro locations. Pro pricing on bulk materials. They'll sell to homeowners but you may need to set up an account or pay cash. Wire by the 250' or 500' roll is way cheaper here than at the big-box.

Online: PlatypusUSA, BatteriesPlus, and Amazon for tools. Newer trade tools often launch online first. Be careful buying electrical components from third-party Amazon sellers (see counterfeit warning below).

Specialty tools: Klein and Greenlee both sell direct, and have factory rebuilds and refurbs at discounts.

For quick-turn projects, the big-box stores are fine. For anything where you'll use lots of materials, the supply house pays for itself fast.

A Note on Counterfeit Electrical Parts

This is a real and growing problem. Counterfeit GFCI outlets, counterfeit breakers, counterfeit AFCI outlets are sold all over the internet. They look real, have real-looking UL labels, but they don't function correctly. A counterfeit GFCI doesn't trip when it should. A counterfeit AFCI doesn't detect arcs. People die because of this.

Rules to avoid counterfeits:

• Buy from authorized dealers. Big-box stores, electrical supply houses, the manufacturer's own website. Not random Amazon sellers, eBay, or AliExpress.
• Watch for prices that are too good. A real Square D HOM 20A breaker costs around $8–10 retail. If you see them for $3 each on a third-party site, something's wrong.
• Inspect the packaging. Counterfeit packaging often has slight printing errors, inconsistent fonts, or wrong barcodes.
• Test GFCI outlets when you install them. Press the test button. Plug in a tester. Don't just trust that it works.
• Check the UL listing. Real listings can be verified at the UL website. Counterfeits often use real UL numbers from a different product, so cross-reference if you're suspicious.

If you bought something that seems off, return it. Even if you've already installed it. The cost of replacing one outlet is nothing compared to the cost of a fire from a bad GFCI.

What You Don't Need (Yet)

Some tools that are common in pro electrical work but not necessary for most homeowner DIY:

• Conduit bender (above 1"). Only if you're running large conduit, which is rare in residential.
• Wire pulling jack / tugger. For very long heavy-cable pulls, usually rented when needed.
• Thermal camera. Amazing tool for finding loose connections and overheating panels, but $300–1500 for a decent one. Rent or hire out.
• Power-quality recorder. Pro-level diagnostics, $1000+. Only for chronic mystery problems.

Don't get sucked into buying tools you'll use once. If a job needs a tool you don't have, the calculation is: rental cost + your time vs. our service call cost. We bring all the tools.

Final Recommendation

Buy the starter kit first. Use it on a few small projects. Get comfortable with the work. Then expand to the intermediate kit when you start running circuits or doing larger jobs. Don't buy everything at once; you'll have stuff sitting in a drawer for years.

The starter kit will pay for itself the first time you replace a few outlets and switches without calling someone. The intermediate kit pays for itself the first time you run a new circuit instead of calling for one.